Sting in the Tail

 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Magical Misty Tour < Bonsai  |  Baron's Revenge > Chicken Boy >>


Climb direct to a good break below the final wall. Climb the wall with difficulty, right of the bolts and reach left to clip the lower-off.

USER COMMENTS

F5? Perhaps the F stands for 'funny'? The 'sting' is a long reach off a small hold - it'd be tough at 6a+!
Joe - 18/Aug/00

I thought this was a bit of a cheeky number!!! The last move was a little unnerving. Not the sort of route to warm up on as a guess a lot of people would envisage themselves doing at this level of grade
Ben Harding - 10/Feb/01

This route lost a hold near the top on Easter Monday. The grade is however, still only 5, unless 5 is your absolute upper limit in which case it's desperate. If you're happy on 6a, then it is still easy.
Mark H - 23/Apr/01

Used this for my first outdoor route. Found the top to be quite an enjoyable challenge. Perhaps a note in the guide to use as a second or third climb once warmed up.
Tom O'Gorman - 07/May/01

Final moves suggest a higher grade than the one currently given, or is that the sting???
Jez - 25/May/03

this route is no way 5, when 'little chef' is 5+.
its easy to the top, but the last move is polished and difficult.
bazza - 24/Aug/03

The final move is quite technical but would seem ok for F5 at a climbing wall - just requires a bit of technique as opposed to grunt.
Richard Horn - 27/Aug/03

Last move is a 6a. Must be down to hold that broke in 2001.
Reinhard - 06/Jul/04

felt all wrong going direct, I thionk the route now goes slightly right (at I guess more than a 5) I ended up going left. A better description in the guide book would help !!!
Woker - 27/Jul/04

Lots of places where it's quite evident that there used to be holds that have either worn smooth or split off. Polished and now undergraded. Probably not worth the bother. Better to head to the right to cleaner climbs and reasonable holds IMO.
TRNovice - 14/Nov/04

or better still avoid the first crap section of the cuttings and head further down where the better rock and also longer climbs are.
Woker - 19/Nov/04

Tough finish - break well right for a good positive hold colse to the top.
Henry - 29/Mar/05

5+ is top of my grade but I couldn't work out how to do the top sting section even dogging it on a top rope...
tchnorton - 30/Jan/06

Easy all the way up and then a really tough last move that didn't seem all that obvious. It shares the lower off with the 3+ next door so I lead that and then top roped this one to figure the end out.
Andy R - 11/Jun/06

Re-did this one and the last moves are awkward. There's two reasonable grips around the penultimate bolt to let you build the feet, but once above that I used a full on pinch grip with the right just under the vague undercut. Shifted my weight across to get the only positive left hand grip up near the lower off and from there you can latch the top ledge if you've moved the feet up high enough. Not one to wander into blindly though.
Andy R - 27/Jul/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 40
    hard 6a 0 of 8
    6a 0 of 8
    easy 6a 7 of 8
    hard 5c 1 of 8
    5c 0 of 8
    easy 5c 0 of 8
    hard 5b 0 of 8
    5b 0 of 8
    easy 5b 0 of 8
    3 Stars 0 of 32
    2 Stars 0 of 32
    1 Star 4 of 32
    0 Stars 18 of 32
    Bag of ..... 10 of 32

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