Juggernaut

 5a

Adjacent Routes
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Climb up and right before making some hard moves up and right again to get established in the upper break. Finish Direct.

USER COMMENTS

Although there appears to be no handholds at the crux you can get a couple of good palm holds then pull for another small hold and then go for it. Falls aplenty.
Albie - 31/May/01

Okay it's just one move but it isn't a 4+ move -- maybe 6a.
srrk - 30/Jul/01

A large piece of rock has fallen off this route since it was first graded. The triangular scar can be seen between the first and second bolt.....may need regrading..?
Ewan - 04/Oct/01

I think a few more have been broken off in desparation, since Ewan's comments. Superglued palms anyone? Try superglue in your chalkbag for this one. 5+, 6a?
Gary Wilson - 02/Apr/02

I found the hardest part gettin off the bloody ground!, definately higher that 4+.
SPaver - 07/Apr/02

I'd guess 5+ or 6a if you stay on line. I took a detour left which may just be as low as 4+.
Haggis - 28/Jul/02

Nice climb, tricky start. Reckon harder than the 4+ given.
Jez - 25/May/03

One hard move, rest is easy, prob still 4 plus with the warning of a hard middle move .. prhaps 5 at a push
Becky T - 10/Jun/03

i'd give it a hard 4+, one tricky move in the middle requiring a strong left arm but easy as pie apart from that...
richard stokes - 05/Aug/03

not a 4+
bazza - 24/Aug/03

The route is basically a one move wonder so would probably give it 5+ assuming you stay on the line, no way near sustained enough to be 6a though.
Richard Horn - 27/Aug/03

Definintely not 4+, probably 5+. Doesn't matter that the rest of the climb is simple - the climb should be graded on the crux move. Pretty disheartening for me as I tried it as my first lead at the cuttings on a damp day... and failed
brian crawford - 13/Apr/04

Sport grades are not graded on crux moves, instead the whole climb is considered in the grade. So one hard move and lots of easy ones get's an easier grade than a route with many hard moves.
Woker - 20/Jul/04

though most of it is easy and clear- the start is tricky for the grade and at the second bolt the move is as hard as a lot of portland 6a+s moves- would feel really bad for any new leaders to try this out- can't believe the grade is acccurate as my partner who was working hall of mirrors (7c) had to use a heel hook (she is a little short ) but, come on, get realistic about the cruxes. should be upgraded to 5+ for the 2 tough moves I think.
Louise Alexander - 26/Jul/04

I agree this is tough for the grade.

Although sports grades are given to reflect the whole route i find that a lot/most Portland routes i have done have had definite Cruxes where it was significantly harder than the rest of the climb...
Wilbur - 28/Jul/04

i think as a consensus has been reached that it is far harder than 4, the grade should be left as it is for sandbagging purposes
connnor - 21/Aug/04

Probably about right at 5. Crux move became soluble the moment I found a tiny little groove on the top right of the ledge for my thumb. Foot went out left, pushed up and used the groove to help mantle. The rest is a step-ladder to the lower-off.
Andy R - 15/Mar/08

Yep, just the one tricky move at mid height, which I'd give 5+. The rest of it very straightforward
John Parker - 03/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 19
    hard 5c 0 of 3
    5c 0 of 3
    easy 5c 3 of 3
    hard 5b 0 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 0 of 3
    hard 5a 0 of 3
    5a 0 of 3
    easy 5a 0 of 3
    hard 4c 0 of 3
    4c 0 of 3
    easy 4c 0 of 3
    3 Stars 0 of 16
    2 Stars 0 of 16
    1 Star 2 of 16
    0 Stars 11 of 16
    Bag of ..... 3 of 16

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