Definitely MaybeRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 43
Adjacent Routes The narrow wall is best taken to the right of the bolts. USER COMMENTS
It's best to follow a line to the right of the bolts up to the crux. I may have been tired but I found this a very tough climb. The crux required great strength and balance and the ablility to take a few falls.
We felt that this one was more like 6A+ or 6B. To climb it directly required several moves of English 5C.
Not 5+. Harder technically than other 6a's but short with closely spaced bolts. One move is particularly reachy and the short can add another grade.
This is not a 5+ or a 6a got to be harder. Has someone removed all the handholds??
If I remember rightly, Mike Vaicaitis gave this somewhere in the region of 6c if you go totally direct up the wall. It's nothing like 6c though.
I agree with the grading comments especially Toby's comment about the handholds being removed.Unfortunately my buddy was climbing and said to me that the undercut/spike on the right of the third bolt seemed really loose and I mockingly requested that he remove it.So he did.Apart from changing the grade we feel that the route name should change too. "Definitely Can't be" anyone?
I think that losing a hold has improved the climb as it is now a more dynamic climb past the 3rd bolt. Perhaps worth a single star(?)
Should the voting panel include a two grades harder option!? Felt as hard as nearby 6b routes.
I went to the right of the bolts and it felt about 5+/6a. One reachy move.
This is emphatically not 5+. Over the last five years or so I have done a good proportion of the climbs at Portland graded 6A - 6C and a few harder. I would, like some of the others that have commented, put it at good 6B. In fact I can remember several 6B+ climbs that I have found easier than this. Have to say though that it is a good climb, but someone got this badly wrong. Would say that the adjacent Sod is a bit out too, but not quite as much. Endorsed by the other three people that I climbed with last Sunday as well.
Very tough for a 5+ but not sure if its quite 6b.
Good climb, but no way is it 5+! All I can say it is at least a stiff 6a+, probably more a 6b from my experience on other routes. There is some fresh-looking rock here, so I think some other bits have come off it recently. Much harder than the neighbouring Little Chef, for sure, which I feel is soundly graded despite a bit of polish.
Crux move definately hard off that undercut. Took me a few falls before I figured it out. It is only hard for 2-3 moves though and right next to the bolt. I haven't a lot of sport experience but wouldn't that bring the grade down to F6a?
so contrived and crap as a result. you can step out left and use good left arete holds but is that cheating? felt off-route to me but then you can still reach the bolts from their!!!
follow the described line and this has some nice, hard moves. all 4 of us that climbed it reckoned it about 6b. good little route. |