Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 45
A great piece of climbing. The wide groove, mainly on its right-hand side. The start is a boulder problem at about V2.
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Very hard botom 10 feet for the grade
Must be one of the few sport routes whose english tech grade is harder than its sport grade!
This has lost some small blocks just above the ledge (on the Infernal Din face) and has revealed a meaty undercut. Also, the 2ft block at the bottom of the groove has gone, but it makes it easier - there used to be SO many holds to choose from!
Fell off on second attempt at the start before clipping the first bolt and hurt my foot on a rock. Quite a desperate start and much harder moves than the grade would suggest, possibly F6c which is what the V2 bouldering comment would suggest.
agreed, the first clip is desperate as hell, more like 6c to the ledge. a fine climb nonetheless
Totally agree, the first clip is a sweat: nearly dropped me fag on the way!A great climb and moving to the arete gives a fantastic view out to sea. A fine climb and a really enjoyable route.
The big block halfway up the route has now gone - no change in grade but makes the top more interesting than before: It's now worth its 6a+ grade :)
With the large block halfway up now gone it is much harder, especially for the short, and is well worth 6b.
Great route, I liked the start, but then I usually boulder and don't do routes! Just treat it like a boulder problem and you'll be fine! I didn't like to top clip, a bit reachy round the corner for those with shorter arms. Great layback section in the middle!
Definately undergraded. Very technical to start and very hard work to finish. Certainly as hard as the 3 other 6b's I've done at Cuttings.
Yes, tough start indeed, but only the first move is hard. Good fun. May like to use a clip-stick for the first bolt. Lovely higher up.
pretty nails for 6a+ - but the main difficulties are low down and it is much steadier above the big ledge. Plenty of time to depump before the groove above, so maybe just merits the grade.
6b is fair
I on-sighted this a few years ago. I didn't find the boulder problem start amazingly tricky! Must be all that Northumberland '6a'! Great route though.
Thats because you are bouldering a font 7a+ and v2 is a walk in the park compared to v6
i found the start of this easier than consomme. and the rest of the route has some nice interesting moves.
It was disgraceful that this gorgeous route was only given one star in the book! It not only deserves the extra star which it has now been awarded, but AT LEAST one more ... as long as you climb right up until your harness is level with the bolts! The start is definitely too hard for 6a+, but once past the first bolt and the ledge, the good moves just keep coming ... This is the best route of this grade that I've climbed in Britain, and as good as my favourite otherwise: Eleusis, on Rocher St Christophe, in France.
There are many 6a+'s better than this on portland - it is 1* max.
You think 6a+, ok no problem, I'll be done in two minutes, you start climbing, woa what's going on, this is tougher than you thought, and then you find yourself coming back down again and again because you can't work out why a 6a+ is making you feel like a blind pig before you even get to the 1st clip. Eventually you accept that you're on the right route, shake again and this time leave your pride on the floor. My verdict: tough cookie but it just gets easier as you get higher.