Baboon

1 Stars
Strong
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Tittsworth < Dead Man Hunt  |  The Grobbler > Transcript Direct >>


A fun route which has seen some frustrated attempts over the last few years since the demise of the hold on the crux. Climb up the right-facing flake to a roof. Swing right and pull over the roof to gain the corner above with difficulty.
FA. Tony Wilmott 7.1965

USER COMMENTS

Good thuggy fun.
Ben Stokes - 06/Apr/00

....but how long will that hold be there?
alexis perry - 06/Jul/00

It's been there for 40 years... As far as I know, it will last another 40.
Steve Taylor - 25/Nov/00

Climbed this route as a warm up ... only to find 'that' hold is no longer there. Definite upgrade required now.
Jimbo - 09/May/01

Climbed the route a couple of weeks ago as I was told a hold was missing. Definitely MUCH harder than before.
ANDY BULLOCK - 10/Jul/01

I'm giving up on predictions - the hold lasted about 1 month after my comment. Route now believed to be HVS 5b.
Steve Taylor - 08/Aug/01

Heard from locals that a big juggy hold pulling out of the crux has gone in the last few weeks. Certainly seems desperate for 4c now (5a at least)
Will - 10/Sep/01

wish i'd read this before i did it and my mate seconding was left hanging off the overhanging crux while i tried to rig a rescue!
ian - 21/Nov/01

I'd vote for HVS 5b
duncan - 24/Jul/02

the most awkward move I've EVER done! Not desperate, just frustrating! I'd say VS 5a
johnny - 03/Jan/03

Thank god there used to be a hold, I thought I had lost my touch! Definately a 5b move now but very safe. This one will catch a lot of people out.
Kev - 30/May/03

I didn't realize that a hold had gone. Felt like 5a/5b one move wonder. A painful jam/wedge with the left hand and a long reach around and up.
Rich C - 08/Sep/04

Also didn't realise there was a missing hold and found it hard. Definitely harder than a 4c move, well protected though.
Oli - 07/Apr/05

I did it pre-missing hold and found it OK. I sent a mate up it a couple of years ago and could not work out what all the faffing was about until I seconded it. Its now quite a bit harder but fun in a strange way.
craig h - 07/Apr/05

Where is Dead Man Hunt? - It is an excellent variation finish to Baboon. Mild 5b - a little bold.
John Godding - 03/Jan/06

In the CC Guide!!!
steve taylor - 03/Jan/06

Had a go at this on Sunday, and found that the large block under the roof is very loose - keep your belay out from under here!
clipskipper - 31/Oct/06

Tried this route on Saturday, and the block under the roof about 4-5m up, dropped down a bit and trapped a CAM while my partner was climbing past. Close call. We retrieved the CAM by abseiling but left the block in place as we couldn't be sure no one was below, it was getting quite stormy at that stage. I would advise against climbing this route, it is a huge loose block and even if the belayer stands out of the way around the corner, the ledge below ia an access ledge and anyone could walk along it at the wrong time.
mmckenna - 26/Nov/07

VS 5a!? This was meant to be a warm down climb after a three day trip. Very difficult/award crux move, I would have thought HVS 5B. I didnt find any lose rock, although that comment was some time ago so maybe it has since fallen off. Bit of a one move wonder climb. There are better routes at the grade close by.
Trevor Olive - 22/Nov/08

Baboon was always a fight; however there was a critical reach round to the top of a large rocking bolder. Unfortunately the bolder fell into the see some years ago now and the guide books have yet to be updated to this. Now the route is a bugger made harder by the unexpected nature of the position you find yourself in.
160bpm.co.uk - 14/Jun/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 26
    hard E1 0 of 1
    E1 0 of 1
    easy E1 0 of 1
    hard HVS 0 of 1
    HVS 0 of 1
    easy HVS 1 of 1
    hard VS 0 of 1
    VS 0 of 1
    easy VS 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 0 of 1
    easy 5b 1 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 24
    2 Stars 6 of 24
    1 Star 15 of 24
    0 Stars 3 of 24
    Bag of ..... 0 of 24

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.