Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 16
A neat, committing test-piece up a blank wall. Climb the wall to the left of an overhang (on Balcony) and finish up the technical wall above.
run out, and not much gear to talk of. Micro wires useful.
I think this is very eliminate. It has taken me three goes to find a way of climbing this at E2. In particular, stepping slightly right to climb the upper bit drops the grade to about HVS but seems perfectly reasonable.
follow the line in the new guide staight through the orange sheet and it's definitely 5c. took me a good while to figure out the crux move and whilst at the point when you commit to the crux sequence there is gear at your feet, there is a sequence of reasonably hard moves and the next gear you get is at a point where falling would probably land you on the ledge.