Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 121
A rounded classic that used to be given VS. Climb a thin crack left of the arete and head straight up to the final break. Move right round the arete to find a precarious final couple of moves. Can be well protected with large cams.
Pretty tough for the grade, but absolutely delightful. Spicy little run-out at the top. One of my favourite HVSs on the edge.
I thought it was quite reasonable at the grade, very slopey breaks, similar climbing to The Scoop. Not pumpy at all, with several proper rests, but you do have to work for your cam placements in the flared breaks. Excellent climbing, a great HVS.
make sure u take a 3 1/2 cam for the top break its a little tough at 5a at the top
wicked route! the climbing is on good, rounded breaks that will take large cams (though as already stated some of the placements require a little work). the move on to the front of the buttress at the top felt airy and the finishing moves (heightened by the legendary stanage end wind) felt hard & scary 5a
I too thought it quite tough for 5a but fair at the grade, its sustained but never desperate lower down and very nice indeed. A friend 4 and a zero 5 together were ok for the top few moves, gear is good if you have enough cams.
The Top can also be protected by a sideways nut (forgot which size) think it fits where Si dH has said a Zero five goes.
Very enjoyable, but that runout finnish with a rounded top where I was expecting a handhold - all very 'exciting'.
Monotonous climbing with baggy worn cam placements.