Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
From the remains of a wall, move left to good holds in the break. Climb straight up, keeping just right of the arete, to the final ledge of Right-hand Tower. The original finish is up the left side of the nose using a small flake at E2 5c though topping out as for Right-hand Tower is more in keeping with the lower section.
Not a well protected start from a good break and pocket (where are the other pockets??). Great slopey fun - take some big cams!
The finish as given in the ROCKFAX topo (on the left of the arete) is nails - 5c crimps followed by a tricky mantelshelf, well above your gear. Probably only E1 5b if you finish direct, on the right of the arete.
you can finish on the arete and avoid the original 5c E2 finish and the finish of Right hand tower and get an award for splitting hairs!
The description is a bit bollox really. This clearly climbs the right hand side of the arete up an obvious direct line.