Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
Adventurous climbing at the upper end of the grade. Start below and left of a jutting overhang at the fault-line. Climb past the corner of the overhang and swing right onto its front face. Ascend the buttress to the top. Take care to avoid rope drag on this pitch.
nice route, though quite 'involved' getting to it and avoiding rope drag. the guidebook description is a little misleading though (unless, of course, i went the wrong way!?). the obvious way to go is to traverse right into the corner then continue the traverse right onto the wall until climbing over it onto a good rest. then go up trending right a little. good jugs on first section, higher up is probably harder.
Ditto that! The abseil in from the stakes nearest to Black Zawn leaves suspended in mid air unless you bounce and swing in, and you're then you about 20 ft away from the start of the route, with a tricky step across a zawn to negotiate. Very very exciting initial moves swinging left below the bulge and pulling up into the corner, followed by a lovely traverse right above the void. Loads of potential for rope drag here(trust me!) and the route-finding on the upper buttress was far from obvious. Once you're on the front face of the buttress climb straight up into a shallow corner and make some steep moves up and right onto the arete. Top value HVS!
Excellent route, like the way it weaves its way up the buttress. Pretty hard for HVS and found the upper section hard to protect with not very convincing wires. Lots of rope drag by the top, had to crawl my way up the slope to the stakes. Felt like a proper 'Swanage Experience'.