Moose's Tooth

2 Stars
Pumpy
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Argo < The Golden Fleece  |  Behemoth > Soul Sacrifice >>


A good, but much harder way up the buttress. High in the grade.
1) 5b, 18m. Start as for Golden Fleece, but break right along a sloping ledge to the arete. Follow this to a belay in the fault-line.
2) 6a, 22m. Pull over a bulge on the left and pass an overhang above - hard. Finish up the left-hand side of the arete above.
FA. Crispin Waddy, C.Mullen 28.2.1986
FFA. Crispin Waddy, Pete Oxley 29.9.1986

USER COMMENTS

I followed the top pitch and thought it very difficult. After the overlap described as hard, we moved left, then up and back across right to finish. This was extremely sustained and more like E4 - there's gear but placing it is very strenuous. Possibly the line should go much close to the arete on the right after the overlap but this didn't look significantly easier from above. Any thoughts
matt perks - 29/Jan/05

like Matt i followed this and also found it very hard, except we stayed much closer to the arete. just before the crux i got a hands off rest knee bar on the right of the arete - and then still struggled to do the crux sequence up off the jugs on the break. i also didn't think it was very well protected (and neither did the leader). given all this i don't think it's e3 and more like e4 (i've done easier e4s!).
ian bryant - 17/Sep/07

Awesome route, very fun first pitch which i thought harder than 5a. Second pitch which can be run together has a cool roof then an easy, slightly choosy wall. The top hard section is on awesome solid rock with good wire placements. Felt about 6a so E3 6a sounds right to me.
Felix Coxwell - 17/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
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