Behemoth Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Golden Fleece < Moose's Tooth  |  Soul Sacrifice > On Life's Edge >>


A well protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in).
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. A tricky move around an arete leads to a belay at the foot of the main corner.
2) 5a, 22m. Ascend the corner past a bulge, then climb the arm-blowing cracks to a rightward exit via a cleaned ledge.
FA. Richard Crewe, Gordon Smith 14.11.1971
FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech 1.1975

USER COMMENTS

first pitch is more like 4c/5a (just get up into the roof before moving round the arete). Did this after lightning wall and it felt easy!
second pitch just keeps on coming, brilliant!
ian - 18/Feb/02

OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear.
johnny - 02/Jan/03

The first pitch is very straight forward with only a move of 5a around the corner. Let your partner to lead it and go for the next one :o)
Panos Athanasiadis - 23/Aug/05

Arete move easy 5a. Superb 3d climbing to start P2 (a couple of insitu threads made it easy) to a rest. The finale is surely 5b on grounds of it's gradient! Best route I've done in the ruckle.
Owen WG - 27/Sep/07

Did the Heidelberg Creature and Old Faithful before this and thought both were better. The 'move' on the 1st pitch felt more like 4c. That said, still an amazing route.
Philip - 15/Jun/09

This route is in a restricted area - DO NOT CLIMB BETWEEN MARCH-JULY INCLUSIVE. Sorry for shouting, but clearly some people cannot read a guidebook.
Steve Taylor - 15/Jun/09

Done in 1 pitch, which is tricky but do-able for a confident team. Nice route, the birds nest in the top crack can be easily avoided.
Jon Leighton - 17/Aug/09

Belay ledge now a bit smaller after a good piece of it fell into the sea yesterday. Doesn't affect the climbing but was pretty exciting for us as we were stood on it at the time. P2 was lead cautiously.
ed babington - 08/Feb/10

HVS 5a
Charles Moreton - 29/Sep/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 49
    hard E1 0 of 25
    E1 0 of 25
    easy E1 1 of 25
    hard HVS 4 of 25
    HVS 19 of 25
    easy HVS 1 of 25
    hard VS 0 of 25
    VS 0 of 25
    easy VS 0 of 25
    hard 5b 0 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 0 of 3
    hard 5a 0 of 3
    5a 2 of 3
    easy 5a 1 of 3
    hard 4c 0 of 3
    4c 0 of 3
    easy 4c 0 of 3
    3 Stars 19 of 21
    2 Stars 2 of 21
    1 Star 0 of 21
    0 Stars 0 of 21
    Bag of ..... 0 of 21

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