Prudence

2 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Let the Punka Burn < Too Precious  |  Ganymede > In the Heat of the Night >>


The obvious line on the left-hand side of the bay.
1) 4c, 14m. Climb the right-hand crack out of a small cave to the fault-line. Belay on the left.
2) 5b, 22m. Pull over the overhang on the right and continue up the crack, passing another bulge rightwards, to an easy finish.
FA. K.Cartwright 26.11.1967

USER COMMENTS

What a gem ! well worth seeking out. Easiest to abseil directly down to the bottom of the route from stakes halfway between the O.F. abseil and the bird restriction marker. The guidebook traverse in looks horrible !

4c, 5b is closer to the mark than the CC grade of 4b, 5a.

Try making the move off the belay ledge in any elegant style !
GrahamD - 15/Dec/04

Belay ledge? Only option seemed to be a hanging belay at top of the corner, or did we miss something! Also struggled to find holds over the top overhang so scuttled left and up the off width corner eventually.
We also abseiled down just beside the route but one of the stakes is well rusted through!
brian mead - 28/Aug/07

A cracking route, but the description and the Rockfax topo are wrong for the top of pitch 2.

Pitch 1 gives some superb jamming to a constricted belay on the left at the faultline. The direct continuation over the roof looks desperate, so traverse right and pull up by a large flake with an in-situ thread. Now move back LEFT to the main crack, where some butch laybacking is needed to pass the final overhang. Large cams or hexes useful for protection on both pitches.
Bob M - 21/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
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