Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
Two contrasting pitches - a strenuous crack and a superb grey headwall. Start at a short, deep groove 5m left of Finale Groove.</br>1) 6a, 18m. Ascend the groove to a rest on a slab (thread). Make powerful moves through the impending bulge to a jammed flake and climb the hand crack to a belay at the fault-line.</br>2) 6b, 20m. Step left and climb leftwards up the wall to a small foot-ledge. Move up to the grey headwall and make very hard moves (2 pegs) to a good hold. Easier ground leads to the top.
I followed Woody up this today. Good effort mate! The first pitch is outrageously good at about E4 6a with good gear. Pitch 2 pulls onto the wall left of the belay as described then trends up left to a hands-off rest on the footledge. There are no pegs on this bit but after getting established above the fault the climbing is alright. The gear at the ledge is okay. Above the ledge is a short overhanging grey wall then the headwall proper. The first peg is visible at the bottom of the headwall. The second peg is a body length higher up. Both pegs are in good condition (5/05). If the placements are good (?) then this is not too serious for E6. If I have understood the CC guide correctly it should be possible to climb this route to the footledge and then finish up Headstone at E4? overall.
This boils down to a hard, fingery move to get past the first peg and stand up on the headwall.