Finale Groove Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 HVS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Wide Awake in America < Boatpusher's Arete  |  'B' Line > Buzz Light Year >>


One of the classics of the area, which follows an awesome line up a tapering groove that is packed with good gear and large holds. A great introduction to the big routes at Swanage. Climb the right-facing corner past a bulge at 15m into a niche. Then climb leftwards past the bulge at the fault-line to ascend the narrowing continuation groove in a very spectacular position.
FA. Gordon Smith, D.Hadlum 12.4.1966

USER COMMENTS

Simply magnificent, a must do, a 4c leader might find it a bit stiff for the grade though!
Al Evans - 01/Jul/01

One of the best routes of any grade at Swanage. A definite must do.
Jason - 08/Aug/01

Superb ! Sustained quality and safe. The crux maybe outwitting the first bulge but the most
intimidating section is right at the top. The top 10' felt a bit looser (11/11/01) than I remembered it ?
GrahamD - 12/Nov/01

Brilliant, one of the best routes ever. Nothing above 4c but quite sustained. Possible belay halfway up if you run out of gear; two pegs on the scary bit at the top.
Crispin - 11/Mar/02

hmm, after all the hype i'm afraid it was a bit of anti-climax. thought 4c was pretty fair though so long as you bridge as much as possible.
ian - 14/Apr/02

First Route i've led in the ruckle, thought it was fantastic. Just don't fo what I did and run out of gear! Made the top all the more exciting!
Adrian P - 02/Jun/02

I have climbed in the Ruckle since the beginning of the 1970's and made a number of first ascents, but I have lost count of the number of times I have enjoyed doing Finale Groove. It really is one of the best of all Swanage routes.
Brian Snell - 30/Jan/03

My first HVS lead and a great experience. Felt harder the second time I did it!
baron von odds - 11/Mar/03

My first route at Swanage and what a cracker!
(on my birthday too!)
Beautiful christmas sun
mark s davies - 28/Dec/03

4C probably, but sustained 4C from under the bulge which makes it feel more like 5A. Great Route. Gritty and ever so slightly loose exit certainly concentrates the mind! Only seems to be one rusty peg near the top now.
QuarryKid - 09/Aug/04

Great route, best I have led this year by far. 4C is about right but there is lots of it and it gets pumpy working out the best line. Found 2 old pegs. Tpo out was ok compared to most the the Ruckle.
PaulW - 31/Aug/05

On of those route that make you very happy to spend the summer in the UK. Extraordinary.
ramon marin martinez - 01/Sep/05

Great route, with a wild finish, the pegs are now completely rotten.
Jon Greengrass - 12/Sep/05

What a great route, somewhat intimidating but once you get on it the holds keep coming and the gear is good. You can bridge all the way up to the crux, then there are a few bold moves to get into the upper groove. Save a bit of energy for the top section. Both pegs are still in there (just).
Mark Reed - 07/Apr/12

Just as good as I remember
Mark Reed - 25/Jul/13

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 55
    hard E1 0 of 2
    E1 0 of 2
    easy E1 0 of 2
    hard HVS 0 of 2
    HVS 2 of 2
    easy HVS 0 of 2
    hard VS 0 of 2
    VS 0 of 2
    easy VS 0 of 2
    hard 5a 0 of 2
    5a 0 of 2
    easy 5a 0 of 2
    hard 4c 2 of 2
    4c 0 of 2
    easy 4c 0 of 2
    hard 4b 0 of 2
    4b 0 of 2
    easy 4b 0 of 2
    3 Stars 47 of 51
    2 Stars 3 of 51
    1 Star 1 of 51
    0 Stars 0 of 51
    Bag of ..... 0 of 51

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.