The Heidelberg Creature

2 Stars
Pumpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Sweet SA < All Guns Blazing  |  Children of the Sun > The Tool >>


An outrageously-steep corner-line that is well protected but hard for the grade. Start on a small ledge below the corner.

1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner and make a steep pull up left to a ledge below an overhang at 8m. Continue steeply up the corner on good holds to a ledge and belay at the fault-line.
2) 4b, 20m. Pull through the overhang using a finger-crack and move up to a slim corner. Climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge on the right at its end. Finish carefully.
FA. Tony Willmott, A.Heppenstall 18.9.1966

USER COMMENTS

The first pitch felt quite hard for 4c. The move past the ledge on the arete, caused problems.
Ewan - 24/Jul/00

An awesome first pitch with what feels a very committing move out on to the arete. Much easier from there on in. Exposed as you start the second pitch. An excellent climb.....beware of loose rocks at the top!
Sean Williams - 07/May/02

Can be done in 1 mega pitch, (you can get a lie down rest on the belay ledge to recover from all the bridging) with a pair of 60m ropes and a load of long quickdraws to extend the runners under the bulges. Some right thrutchy moves to get through the first bulge, big fists help with the jamming and its a bit dusty though so feels quite insecure. The corner crack on what would have been the top pitch offers thin hand jamming on superb rough rock.
Jon Greengrass - 12/Sep/05

Lovely route! Just look down from the stance and see how much that first pitch overhangs! Crux is definitely the step left onto the arete below the wide crack on pitch one. Top pitch pleasantly exposed.
jtree03 - 02/Jun/06

Good route tough 1st pitch in the heat made the mistake of not removing my fleece felt so hard as I was so hot. Top pitch is pleasant good route 2.5 stars
Michael - 12/Mar/07

great climbing and great value
ian bryant - 27/May/07

Fantastic route. 1st pitch unbelievably steep at the grade. But big holds where you need them. 3 stars.
Philip - 15/Jun/09

Fantastic route with an awesome first pitch - bit of a sandbag at VS (but that's Swanage for you).
Mark Reed - 25/Jul/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 53
    hard HVS 0 of 18
    HVS 0 of 18
    easy HVS 2 of 18
    hard VS 11 of 18
    VS 5 of 18
    easy VS 0 of 18
    hard HS 0 of 18
    HS 0 of 18
    easy HS 0 of 18
    hard 5a 0 of 18
    5a 0 of 18
    easy 5a 2 of 18
    hard 4c 12 of 18
    4c 4 of 18
    easy 4c 0 of 18
    hard 4b 0 of 18
    4b 0 of 18
    easy 4b 0 of 18
    3 Stars 4 of 17
    2 Stars 5 of 17
    1 Star 8 of 17
    0 Stars 0 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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