Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
A fine, sustained outing with good positions which is now climbed in a single pitch. Start 5m right of Heidelberg Creature. Climb steeply up parallel cracks to pass a blocky bulge on the left. Follow the hanging corner above past a large overhang at the fault-line and on up to a small overhang. Step left around an arete and follow a thin crack and shallow groove to the top.
Best enjoyed in one pitch (50 m ropes) if you are careful to avoid rope drag
Wow! my first route at swanage. Its so steep but yet you don't get pumped, theres jams and bridging rests all over the place so the massive roof on the first pitch is easy. We belayed below the first small roof so didn't see the proper belay til we climbed pitch two and saw the comedy rotting pegs. Top pitch is much harder than the first, technical wall climbing and finger locks and does feel quite sustained hence E2.
I think this is one of the easier E2's at Swanage. It works well as a single pitch.
Definitely do it in 1 pitch. The belay would be uncomfortable and also immediately before the crux. A great and varied route.
Doing it one pitch would avoid any confusion with the rockfax diagram showing the belay much lower down than it is - where JG belayed on 13/11/04 see above. The proper belay isnt too bad on wires-tho semi hanging. Good route.
This was my first E2 on the ruckle and I loved it even though I had jammed rope lost gear issues - but managed to stay on and got it clean - loved the final crimpy section (even on slightly pumped arms - would have been alot easier if I hadn't been hanging off one arm trying to extracate gear and tug on jammed rope)