Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 128
The best VS in Boulder Ruckle. Well protected, but at the very upper limit of the grade. Start on a ledge below a large sentry box.</br></br>1) 5a, 18m. Climb up until a move right can be made to the base of a crack in the right wall of the sentry box. Climb the crack and pull right to an easing at the right-hand side of the overhang above. Follow the steep crack to a ledge and belay.</br>2) 4b, 10m. Move right along a foot-ledge to a short vertical crack. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arete.</br>3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner.
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Superb situation on the hand traverse- a great route. The top pitch can sort out those who have spent too long at the climbing wall!
Great route, but I do think that the first pitch is a touch fierce for VS. Bomber belays on the route which is very confidence inspiring. We gave the route either the first, or certainly one of the first climbs after the end of the bird restriction and it was VERY dirty - sandy and covered in guano. This may have contributed to the difficulty. I'd like to repeat it after it's had some traffic. I defnintely agree with Ben re: the top pitch!
I agree, top pitch is definitely 4c
First pitch was very wet and sandy, couldn't jam or layaway the crack up to the roof. Pulled a big sandy hold off on the traverse pitch, the final pitch was by far the best! Pleased to top out!
Great route.. Very hard first pitch, nice traverse but fantastic last pitch (agree 4c). BUT is it really a VS???
Watch out for the nesting seagull on the ledge on pitch three, I got my arse pecked last W/E. Stiff at the grade.
I also think it's very stiff for VS, and I've now done it twice, and it didn't seem any easier. I also pulled off a grotty hold on middle of traverse; big swing if you havn't got any gear in midway.
Fantastic route, three very different pitches. The first pitch is a very hard on-sight at VS, second is an awesome hand traverse (don't bother fiddling gear just go for it) and the third pitch is very unlike swanage, solid rock and off-width crack climbing. A bit cheeky for 4c but a fantastic pitch.
This is a brilliant route for a strong party and one of the toughest VSs around.
I'd love to watch a VS leader try and lead this first pitch. Easily HVS and nudging 5b. The 2nd pitch is tough too. 3rd pitch is more straightforward. All round excellent route.
I also pulled off a hold in the middle of the second pitch ( dodgy but at least short ) And agree that the third pitch is 4c. brillaint route at HVS, a bit worrying if you're expecting easy VS 4b climbing after sorting out the exit moves on the sentry box.
We thought the first brilliant pitch was def worth hvs, also thought the traverse pitch was much harder than 4b and also quite unprotectable, last pitch had enjoyable moves.
Great route and I think the grading is fair. There's also adequate gear to protect the second pitch. The first pitch is typical swanage but the third pitch is more likely to catch people out i think.