Marmolata Buttress

2 Stars
Pumpy
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Tatra < Marmolata Arete  |  Marmolata Combination > Director's Groove >>


A gnarly first pitch leads to fine and varied climbing on the east face of the buttress.
1) 5c, 12m. Start as for the last route then climb a thin crack with difficulty to a large ledge on the seaward face.
2) 5b, 15m. Traverse around the corner to a groove leading to the fault-line. Traverse right again to a second groove which leads onto a ledge. Belay in the corner.
3) 5b, 15m. Step left out onto the wall where a lovely flake system leads to the top.
FA. Gordon Smith, Richard Crewe 2.6.1973
FFA. George Hounsome, Scott Titt 20.11.1977

USER COMMENTS

Fine climbing even if it's not an entirely natural line.
Mike Raine - 09/Jun/03

Very soft at E3
Adam Lincoln - 24/Apr/06

Good route, with an excellent and sustained first pitch shame itís only 10m long! Possibly a bit soft for e3, I thought the first pitch was pretty tricky but then I donít often climb at this grade.
felix - 24/Apr/06

3 great pitches. first pitch has great technical climbing and 2nd has a short section of committing 5c. 3rd pitch almost gave me cramp in my biceps!
ian bryant - 27/May/07

I thought the first pitch was quite tough. There are no hard moves - barely 5c - but it is steep, strenuous, sustained, and the gear takes time to place; solid E3 in my opinion. The other two pitches are a grade easier. Overall this is an excellent little expedition.
matt perks - 30/May/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 15
    hard E4 0 of 5
    E4 0 of 5
    easy E4 0 of 5
    hard E3 0 of 5
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    hard 5c 0 of 5
    5c 5 of 5
    easy 5c 0 of 5
    hard 5b 0 of 5
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    2 Stars 5 of 5
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