Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 68
Start at a blunt rib just left of Kelly's Crack and trend left to climb the slab passing a loose perched flake at half-height. Micro cams can help reduce the grip on the upper section.
Did I go off route? Straight up from the left end of the flake - sustained 4c with no protection after the flake?
No you didn't go off route, that's definitely a 4b and you can get a cam in the break.
Well that's what I did - got a 0 cam and a peanut in about head height whilst standing on the flake - there is protection opportunity at the last brake before the top, but doesn't seem worth it.
Quite a nice climb, grade seemed about right, not too hard but not a lot of gear.
Stack the flake with gear. There's a hardish move off the flake if you're short, but after that it's easy. Certainly not "sustained 4c".
If your not too keen on mantel finishes, ignore RobRock and gear up the top break.