Elysium Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Director's Groove < Lightning Wall  |  Brisingamen > Singing Winds >>


A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the fault-line. Climb a crack to a ledge at the base of a thin crack in the smooth wall below the roof. Climb the thin crack past a peg to the roof, traverse rightwards to below a corner and climb this strenuously to another corner. Move left around the arete to join and finish more easily up Lightning Wall.
FA. Richard Crewe, Kenny Winkworth 7.1.1968

USER COMMENTS

Awesome. Give up the bolts for a day and get on this. Better than any route of comparible difficulty on Portland.
Ben Stokes - 06/Jun/00

Brilliant, if Bucaneer is three stars this is six!
Al Evans - 01/Jul/01

Utterly superb. Quality moves from bottom to top. Good gear. The best route I've done at Swanage bar none. Wholeheartedly recommended.
Jason - 24/Jun/02

Agree with above comments. Need to think about runners to avoid awful rope drag, but great route. Must do it again!
brian mead - 24/Oct/05

Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome.
Virgil Scott - 27/Oct/05

1st Limestone E1 and what a route. Brilliant climbing with several sections that have a move or two.
Michael - 23/Mar/07

Great Fun. Quite thin to start and then great sustained finish. Looking forwards to the headpoint.
Trevor Olive - 22/Nov/08

A good route but I don't think it's worth more than the ** rating it gets in my old CC guide.
Charles Moreton - 29/Sep/10

10 Aug 2016 Been saving this one for ages but finally got on it - stupid mistake on crux first go (moving right from big hold) - when I got it right it was easy (never mind ) the moves into the upper groove are a bit out there (although protected by a bomber cam in the roof) once you get established in the groove it gets really easy - make sure you take plenty of quickdraws and don't do what I did and run out !!!!! One of the best routes I've ever climbed !!
Mark Reed - 14/Aug/16

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  • Access Issues for Dorset


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 84
    hard E2 0 of 27
    E2 0 of 27
    easy E2 0 of 27
    hard E1 3 of 27
    E1 21 of 27
    easy E1 3 of 27
    hard HVS 0 of 27
    HVS 0 of 27
    easy HVS 0 of 27
    hard 5c 0 of 29
    5c 0 of 29
    easy 5c 0 of 29
    hard 5b 0 of 29
    5b 0 of 29
    easy 5b 0 of 29
    hard 5a 0 of 29
    5a 0 of 29
    easy 5a 0 of 29
    hard 4c 0 of 29
    4c 0 of 29
    easy 4c 0 of 29
    hard 4b 0 of 29
    4b 0 of 29
    easy 4b 0 of 29
    hard 4a 0 of 29
    4a 0 of 29
    easy 4a 0 of 29
    hard 3c 0 of 29
    3c 0 of 29
    easy 3c 0 of 29
    hard 3b 0 of 29
    3b 0 of 29
    easy 3b 0 of 29
    hard 3a 0 of 29
    3a 0 of 29
    easy 3a 0 of 29
    hard 2c 0 of 29
    2c 0 of 29
    easy 2c 0 of 29
    hard 2b 0 of 29
    2b 0 of 29
    easy 2b 0 of 29
    hard 2a 0 of 29
    2a 0 of 29
    easy 2a 0 of 29
    hard ?? 4 of 29
    ?? 22 of 29
    easy ?? 3 of 29
    3 Stars 24 of 28
    2 Stars 4 of 28
    1 Star 0 of 28
    0 Stars 0 of 28
    Bag of ..... 0 of 28

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