Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
Adjacent Routes
A big wall pitch just right of Elysium with some fine, bold face work. Start as for Elysium. Climb the initial crack, then move right to a spike. Move up then launch up the blank, shallow groove to the fault-line (peg) - bold. Climb direct to another peg, then move left to a thin crack and the finish of Brisingamen. USER COMMENTS
This is a brilliant route which follows a strong line up the main cliff. I disagree that it is very bold in the shallow groove. In fact it is quite well protected with lots of wire placements just before the crux. Sure, your feet are above the gear when the crux moves are done, but it is steady climbing. Once the break is reached there is more good gear and the climbing is quite straight forward to the top.
Must admit I found this pretty tough to figure out at the crux, maybe the absence of any chalk didn't help but it looks quite improbable until you launch yourself at it. There are indeed wires below the crux but the crack is a little flaring and so I wouldn't call them good, though the gear in the break below is good and will easily keep you off the ground until you reach the break above and get some more gear. Great route |