Dune Dust

2 Stars
Technical
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Brisingamen < Singing Winds  |  Thunder Groove > Gypsy >>


A good route that maintains interest throughout both its pitches. The pegs are old but there is good gear available to back them up. Start below an overhung, right-leaning corner.
1) 6a, 25m. Move up the right-leaning corner for 5m, then pull straight up through the bulge to gain a horizontal break. Climb the thin black streak above (2 pegs) to the main fault-line. Move right and up through a bulge to a corner and a stance.
2) 4c, 15m. Climb up and leftwards around an arete to enter and finish up a corner.
FA. Pete Oxley, J.Preston 5.9.1986

USER COMMENTS

An excellent first pitch with fantastic rock on the crux wall - the section above the fault is tricky to begin but soon eases, this would be a three star route if the difficulties went on for longer.
tom rainbow - 18/Jun/01

Well worth doing. The crux is hard but well-protected by the first peg (looks to be in good nick - July 2005) with good gear below it anyway. The climbing to reach it is absolutely fantastic.
matt perks - 30/Jul/05

Fantastic first pitch and the second is short but still good.
Personally felt the pegs on the first ptich looked quite corroded in the cracks; might take a fall, might not. Although their condition does not make the climbing harder, it makes the route a bit bolder.
Richard White - 13/Nov/06

Both pegs looked at least slightly dubious (August 2009) but there is adequate back up gear.
Felt like E4.
andy reeve - 18/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
    hard E5 0 of 0
    E5 0 of 0
    easy E5 0 of 0
    hard E4 0 of 0
    E4 0 of 0
    easy E4 0 of 0
    hard E3 0 of 0
    E3 0 of 0
    easy E3 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 6
    6b 0 of 6
    easy 6b 0 of 6
    hard 6a 0 of 6
    6a 6 of 6
    easy 6a 0 of 6
    hard 5c 0 of 6
    5c 0 of 6
    easy 5c 0 of 6
    3 Stars 1 of 6
    2 Stars 5 of 6
    1 Star 0 of 6
    0 Stars 0 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

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