Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 32
A quality route. Start at a small corner behind the highest boulder. </br>1) 5b, 25m. Head right for 5m then make a hard move upwards past a pinnacle block to a ledge. The groove above leads, with difficulty, to the fault-line. Place good gear then tackle another groove that gains a large belay ledge on the left. </br>2) 4c, 15m. Step right and climb the groove past a ledge to reach an exit corner.
good quality route. crux section very daunting but the holds are there once you commit to it. careful, ropework helped to do it one pitch.
A great lead at the grade - looks and feels daunting and impressive but it's all there for you. The crux comes quite early so don't skimp on gear during the first half, particularly if you try it in one go.
Some may find the above comment a bit offputting since gear before the funny 'pinnacle block' (more of a rounded knob / spike) is a bit fiddly. The climbing on this diagonal traverse is quite straightforward (4a) if you pay attention to finding the best line. The hard bit is above the knob / spike and has bombproof gear.
A fine outing, and though the first bit is pretty gear free it's not difficult till you get to the big knobbly thing where the gear starts and it then does get harder, but the crux is over with pretty quickly. Possibly worth more than one star!