Gypsy Top 50

3 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Dune Dust < Thunder Groove  |  The Adventures of Portland Bill > Strongbow >>

Well-travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the smooth face below the main fault-line.
1) 5b, 16m. Pull up strenuously onto a ledge and move up a corner to an overhang. Climb another overhang and the slim corner to the fault-line and belay.
2) 5b, 22m. Step right and pull over the overhang into an open groove. Follow the groove to an overhang before moving right and climbing to the top.
FA. Richard Crewe, Kenny Winkworth 29.10.1967


A great route and much more sensibly graded now its E2, I really dont think its particularly hard for 5b but its nicely sustained interest and great rock and line make it a classic!
Al Evans - 01/Jul/01

Great route. Thought the first pitch was the harder as it's more sustained. I loved the layback moves.
El Greyo - 18/Mar/05

i'm amazed that 7 out of 17 votes cast to date think this is more like 5c than 5b! i thought it was one of the easiest e2s i've ever done and whilst having sustained moves they were interspersed with good rests - the climbing was definitely no more than 5b and only that because of it's sustained and fairly steep nature, or was i just having a good day?!
good route either way.
ian bryant - 24/Oct/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 61
    hard E3 0 of 21
    E3 0 of 21
    easy E3 0 of 21
    hard E2 9 of 21
    E2 9 of 21
    easy E2 3 of 21
    hard E1 0 of 21
    E1 0 of 21
    easy E1 0 of 21
    hard 5c 0 of 21
    5c 0 of 21
    easy 5c 7 of 21
    hard 5b 9 of 21
    5b 4 of 21
    easy 5b 1 of 21
    hard 5a 0 of 21
    5a 0 of 21
    easy 5a 0 of 21
    3 Stars 17 of 19
    2 Stars 2 of 19
    1 Star 0 of 19
    0 Stars 0 of 19
    Bag of ..... 0 of 19

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