Vortices

2 Stars
Pumpy
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Adventures of Portland Bill < Strongbow  |  The Mace > Acapulco >>


A mix of the sustained and strenuous on a strong line makes this a route worth tracking down. Start right of a corner, below a large roof.
1) 5c, 20m. Move up the thin wall to a large hanging flake and pull right into a short corner. Go up to a horizontal break, and traverse rightwards again, until just beyond a vertical crack. Climb the wall on reasonable holds to the fault-line and belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Pull onto the wall above, follow it to a corner, and climb this to the top - the upper section of Strongbow.
FA. Pete Finklaire, D.Glover 21.4.1985

USER COMMENTS

This is a very worthwhile route, the first pitch is especially fine. Varied climbing and a strong line.
tom rainbow - 18/Jun/01

Agree with Tom, found the first pitch felt quite necky.
Guy Maddox - 20/Jun/01

First pitch seems really hard if you're short!!!!!
Al Evans - 24/Sep/01

Al: I'm 5' 4.5" and didn't find reach a problem, how tall are you? Main problem geting pumped whilst trying to get gear in, awesome positions, top pitch deprives it of third star
Kevin Stephens - 07/May/02

Does this route attract shortarses?
Guy Maddox - 22/Aug/02

I did the first ascent of this route with Pete Finklaire. I'm 5'4" so yes it probably does attract "short arses" !!
However, I didn't find the reach a problem.
Dave Glover - 25/Apr/05

Pleasantly surprising route - better gear, and easier and better moves than expected! 2 stars!
feilx - 10/May/05

Great climbing on first pitch. Difficult and awkward to arrange a good belay and you can't see your second on the crux from the belay. The traverse goes quite a long way but has good gear for your second. Second pitch is pretty easy for the grade.
ianb - 16/Oct/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 22
    hard E3 0 of 8
    E3 0 of 8
    easy E3 0 of 8
    hard E2 3 of 8
    E2 4 of 8
    easy E2 1 of 8
    hard E1 0 of 8
    E1 0 of 8
    easy E1 0 of 8
    hard 6a 0 of 8
    6a 0 of 8
    easy 6a 0 of 8
    hard 5c 2 of 8
    5c 3 of 8
    easy 5c 2 of 8
    hard 5b 1 of 8
    5b 0 of 8
    easy 5b 0 of 8
    3 Stars 0 of 6
    2 Stars 5 of 6
    1 Star 1 of 6
    0 Stars 0 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.