Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
A great trip - very exposed and a touch run-out on the second pitch. The first pitch has suffered a rockfall but has been re-climbed with no change in grade.</br>1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner with ironstone flakes - just left of the rockfall - to the roof. Move left to a crack that leads to the fault-line. Belay on the right.</br>2) 5c, 25m. Follow flakes on the right and then traverse out right above the roof to ledges. Climb the wall just left of the arete past a spike to a break. Exit up a short groove.
Not nearly as scary as either guide suggests. The most comitting move is the hand traverse on the first pitch, but you ahve gear by your nose. There are plenty bits and pieces of gear where it's needed on pitch two, including at least one which is abosolutely bombproof. The moves are made with the gear by your feet, OK the moves aren't totally obvious but the holds are good and you can see what you are going for. Get on it, it's a great climb despite being abit wandering (which is why it can't heve three stars)
The first pitch has now significantly altered, since a very large chunk of it is now resting at the bottom of the Ruckle. The big roof & committing traverse is no longer....
I looked at this today following Sue's comment. There has indeed been a large rockfall affecting the first pitch. It looked feasible to climb the arete that remains - the left edge of where the rockfall has occurred - and then traverse right under the large roof to reach the original belay. This looked like reasonable climbing and would probably not affect the grade of the route.
Climbed this today starting up the corner with ironstone flakes just left of the rockfall. This joins the original route below the roof where you move left to a crack leading to the fault. Good climbing and grade unaffected.