Larus

 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
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Previously HS 4b before the 2008 rockfall. This route should not be relied upon for an escape route!

Guidebook description: A worthwhile climb with good protection. A possible escape route.
1) 4b, 20m. Gain the groove from the right and follow it to the fault. Step left past a gap to a good belay ledge around the arete.
2) 4a, 18m. Climb past a flake and two roofs then come back left and up an exit corner. Not in current guidebook.
FA. A.Hartley, R.Snell, I.Howell 8.5.64

USER COMMENTS

not many going down to this section of the ruckle would be interested in this sort of grade i'm sure but it's still a worthwhile route. though the scramble up the grass to top out is a bit desperate after a rain shower!
ian - 27/Apr/03

initial bulge is a bit cheeky as is first move on second pitch, pro is good all the way though, good first route on the ruckle. abseil 50m to west is fantastic too!
toby - 29/May/03

Not a good first route on the ruckle, top pitch requires ruckle top-out experience and has loose blocks.
ellis - 04/Jul/05

The second pitch isn't the usual Ruckle looks loose but isn't; it really is extremely loose.
Andy - 01/Aug/05

Second pitch is in a very dangerous state - even by Swanage standards! Take care on (if you must) & crossing below this route.
Paul - 01/Aug/05

Top pitch is like climbing a giant game of Jenga. Loads of big loose stuff. Not recommended.
Jane - 04/Aug/05

There's now a large collection of huge blocks underneath this route. I think it's taken out most (all?) of what used to be the first pitch at least, of this route. Perhaps someone can confirm? One of the easier 'escape' routes from the Ruckle now gone..
Sue Hazel - 14/Apr/08

There has certainly been a large rockfall to the immediate left of Larus. Possibly some stuff has come down from the upper part of Little Matterhorn or Love Comes Tumbling (not in the Rockfax) and taken out a massive block nearer the base of the cliff. There used to be a big, low roof - Larus went up the groove at the left end of this - but now the roof is about six metres further up. I thought Larus might be largely unaffected but with an easy crack where the initial groove used to be. Love Comes Tumbling, Ilium, and Little Yellow Jug (none are in the Rockfax) will be substantially altered. I don't think Blow The House Down or Gold Fever are affected.
matt perks - 10/May/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
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