Flying Finish

1 Stars
Technical
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Gold Fever < Joe 90  |  Billy Pigg > Rattler >>


A varied route starting under the left end of a long roof at 10m.</br>1) 5b, 15m. Ascend to the roof then take a crack on the left to the fault-line. Hanging belay.</br>2) 5b, 20m. Follow a groove to a high roof. Swing right and over it leftwards finishing via a crack to the top.
FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin 31.3.1979,FA. (Pitch 2 ) Crispin Waddy, John Vlasto 28.3.1985

USER COMMENTS

Glad this is now E2 as it felt hard at E1, then it was a cold feb day and my fingers were frozen so can't comment on quality.
Geoff Odds - 13/Oct/05

steady 5b all the way with decent gear. i guess it gets e2 because it's quite steep all the way up. some very suspect rock on roof of 2nd pitch.
ian bryant - 30/Jul/07

Would agree steady 5b, nothing desperate move- wise, but gear needs diligence to set correctly & some of the upper section (+ block just under roof) does need a bit of care. Great climbing & positions though..
Sue Hazel - 14/Apr/08

Two hard bits, one on each pitch, both well-protected but steep and strenuous, so I agree 5b but without much chance to hang about and contemplate options. Definitely E2 for me. A good route. I know what you mean about the block by the upper roof although it seems solid at the moment.
matt perks - 20/Apr/11

Did this again on Saturday in the hope of sneaking a peak at Joe 90. Couldn't really see any more than the first half of Joe 90 from this route (which you can see from the ground anyway) but I might have just been too focused on the very unnerving rock on this route!
ianb - 09/May/16

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  • Access Issues for Dorset


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 11
    hard E3 0 of 4
    E3 0 of 4
    easy E3 0 of 4
    hard E2 0 of 4
    E2 4 of 4
    easy E2 0 of 4
    hard E1 0 of 4
    E1 0 of 4
    easy E1 0 of 4
    hard 5c 0 of 4
    5c 0 of 4
    easy 5c 0 of 4
    hard 5b 0 of 4
    5b 0 of 4
    easy 5b 0 of 4
    hard 5a 0 of 4
    5a 0 of 4
    easy 5a 0 of 4
    hard 4c 0 of 4
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    easy 4c 0 of 4
    hard 4b 0 of 4
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    hard 4a 0 of 4
    4a 0 of 4
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    easy 3c 0 of 4
    hard 3b 0 of 4
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    hard 3a 0 of 4
    3a 0 of 4
    easy 3a 0 of 4
    hard 2c 0 of 4
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    easy 2c 0 of 4
    hard 2b 0 of 4
    2b 0 of 4
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    hard 2a 0 of 4
    2a 0 of 4
    easy 2a 0 of 4
    hard ?? 1 of 4
    ?? 3 of 4
    easy ?? 0 of 4
    3 Stars 0 of 3
    2 Stars 1 of 3
    1 Star 2 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

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