Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
An exposed second pitch. Start 5m right of Rattler below a left-facing corner crack.</br>1) 5a, 18m. Pass a roof and follow the crack until it is possible to break right and climb a corner. Step left onto a hanging boulder then move up and right to follow a crack to the fault-line.</br>2) 5c, 20m. Move up left and take a corner to a roof. Go over on jugs and continue to another roof. Pass this then move right to finish up a groove.
Something weird happening on the second pitch my (very able) leader failed and we had to escape up the top pitch of Billy Pigg
is it right that the crux peg has gone ?
1st pitch felt harder than 5a. belay is not easy to arrange as some of the rock is very soft and sandy. on 2nd pitch the rock is better; getting through 1st roof is steady 5b but after getting your feet onto its lip to getting beyond the 2nd roof is steady 5c all the way. the crux moves over the 2nd roof are not obvious and take a bit of thought. the peg below the 2nd roof is still there but, as usual, i wouldn't trust it. there's a good cam placement under the 2nd roof near a semi-rest but between that and the stakes at the top all i found was a dodgy number 1 wire. don't let that put you off though, it's worth doing!