Kelly's EliminateRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 73
Adjacent Routes
10m. Excellent climbing up the centre of the buttress. The start is steep and strenuous, although on good holds. The upper section is delicate and poorly protected. USER COMMENTS
The day I was there three parties couldn't do the start and I have to admit to cheating on the last bit! I normally climb VS.
The start is deffinitely hard for severe. But Crow Chin as a whole is a nice piece of rock.
The start is deffinitely hard for severe. But Crow Chin as a whole is a nice piece of rock.
I think 4b is fair for the start. The top is easier but very bold. An excellent route.
Dangerously misgraded. S 4b implies a single well protected 4b move, but there is no worthwhile protection until almost half height, and then no more until the top. It's either VS 4b or HS 4a - I'd say probably the latter (that's what Stanage 2002 gives it) though leaving the ground felt harder than 4b. Either way, imagine how you'd feel with the old Stanage guide or OPR both of which give it as Diff!
There's a route missed out of the Rockfax guide, an eliminate between Kelly's Eliminate and October Crack. Spring Sunshine VS 4c, up the right edge of the buttress throughout, really nice climbing but spoiled by the need to avoid using the arete on the right.
Kelly's Eye (which was first climbed on the same day as Spring Sunshine) is included and is just as much of an eliminate, and not as nice climbing IMHO. And Rockfax claim that it's a selected buttress guide, ie they choose only some of the buttresses but include all the routes on that buttress. Except when they don't!
This seems a serious undergrade especially compared to the nearby routes of Autumn Gold (HS,4a) and Bright Eyed (VS,4b). The latter were easy for the grade and lead you into a false sense of 'security' for this route.
Good route. The grading at HS seems fair.
I would say this is potentially undergraded. It feels like 4b with very little protection. If you lead high-end VS, then you probably won't notice, but if VD/HS is your normal leading, you need to be careful on this one.
Technically straightforward after a couple of moves off the deck. No way anywhere near VS. |