Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 65
A truly magnificent climb that ascends the big narrowing groove to a wild finish. It gets an extra star for the beauty of the line, though the climbing is just a touch dirty. Climb the corner crack to a bulge. Shift right into a parallel crack then back left into the main corner. Continue up the corner (peg) to the capping roof - superb large thread and resting place. Drop out and over to a strenuous exit crack.
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That "strenuous exit crack" must be 5c.
No Mike - stop climbing on Devon slabs - it's just steep 5B
Certainly not more than 5b, good footholds and jugs for your hands. Great though!
Really cant understand the fuss about this route. Found it dirty,greasy and the climbing was just very awkward rather than satisfyingly technical.Probably E3 5b. Gerry thought it was harder than Ocean Boulevard and not in the same class for quality, indeed not in the same class as Elysium, Gypsy or Finale Groove which we did in the same weekend. Well over-rated , one star only!!
Dont sent your VS leader mate up the first 4C pitch, more like E1 5a!, top pitch is ok at E2 5b, a fight but very safe. Stars for the line, exposure and position, not so much for the climbing experience
Torn between the last two comments. Massive line and an experience overall but the first pitch is potentially serious. I'd go for E2,5a,5b. Two in-situ wires at the belay now. Sorry!
The guide book has aways said E2 low in the grade. I can't believe that, this route must be E3. Technical grade? Can't say as it's just a bloody struggle.
it is probably only 5b as the holds are all decent but you certainly need to be very good at pumpy steep routes if you're going to avoid a whipper.
Climb the first pitch right up to the thread, great hanging belay!
Having made a large error of (old) guide book judgement I thought I was on finale groove, I think that linking the first pitch (5b) of Mickey Mouse to the second pitch of Buccaneer in one is the way forward, hard work stacks of rests, just remember to stretch your calfs first! Ian - thanks for the wires very handy!
A little overrated but good well protected fun nonetheless. Steady for the grade.
Overrated? No way! I thought it was absolutely superb! An awesome experience, especially at sunset.
Both pitches are very different, but provide varied and interesting climbing all the way to the top.
This route is awesome! I agree with the E2 5b comments; above the roof is wild and strenuous but on excellent holds and jams. It is fine - probably better - as a single pitch. Currently the stake directly above the route is thoroughly buried in the thorny stuff.
Finally got round to going back to this and felt vindicated for my lob all those years ago-it's sooooo pumpy and very awkward. Oh, and probably not the best warm up after not climbing in Swanage for a while!