Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 40
Superbly-sustained climbing that tracks an intricate line up the centre of the wall. Start at the base of the wall, below a thin crack with a rope sling at the midway horizontal break. Climb the first few easy-angled metres to the start of the thin crack. Make hard but well protected moves up the crack to the horizontal break - an insitu rope sling. Move left, then up, past good holds and a peg before gaining a thin crack-line on the left. Follow the crack-line past four more pegs to finish.
The grade depends on the state of the pegs. If they are in good condition, then it is E4. However, if they are in poor condition then it is probably E5.
Pegs were rusty and the rock quite sandy and "crunchy" in August 2008
Don't think the state of pegs has any effect on the grade, there's bomber gear everywhere. Definitely nowhere near E5, it's a fair bit easier than warlord I thought.
In 1988 this was an E3 5c sandbag. I thought it was harder than Barracuda and Wall of the Worlds. But brilliant!! E4 6a
quite a committing series of moves to get on the ledge, gain the crack and then reach the break with the thread. the break was very sandy when i did it and no chalk on it made it a little difficult to follow at what i considered the second crux - after the good holds about 2/3 the way up. pegs are all rusty and flaky but still gave me the confidence to keep pushing on! very, very pumpy!