Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
A typical Swanage roof test-piece. Start right of the large roof.</br>1) 5c, 15m. Climb a wall and crack to the right-hand side of the roof. Swing out past an old peg and surmount the roof leftwards with difficulty into a crack leading to the fault-line.</br>2) 5a, 17m. Head diagonally right via two stepped roofs. Move right again and over a bulge to finish up a solid corner.
5c, my arse! I know it says 6b for shorties, but I am not that short (5'9") and there is no way I can reach round to anything decent.
i second that. im 5'11" or so, and it was certainly a struggle... had to do the move off the sloper in the end.
I disagree with the two previouse comments. Although the move looks very intimidating, once you get up high under the roof it is not that hard. E2 5c is about my limit and I found it graded fairly. Well worth doing.
The hold round the roof is not the biffa jug one might hope for but it's good enough to hold on to whilst sorting out the other limbs. A genuine one-move wonder. The tat could do with replacing although it's okay for the moment (August '08); the rusty lump of steel it's attached to is substantial but showing its age.
5c. I'm 5'8" and weak but it didn't feel like reach problem. It's all about footwork and body position. Good route.