Nassty Spider

1 Stars
Technical
Strong
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Black Sunshine < Dark Side of the Sun  |  Aventura > Judgement Day >>


A typical Swanage roof test-piece. Start right of the large roof.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb a wall and crack to the right-hand side of the roof. Swing out past an old peg and surmount the roof leftwards with difficulty into a crack leading to the fault-line.
2) 5a, 17m. Head diagonally right via two stepped roofs. Move right again and over a bulge to finish up a solid corner.
FA. Brian Snell, K.Knight 26.7.1975
FFA. Gordon Jenkin, Tim Dunsby 10.6.1984

USER COMMENTS

5c, my arse! I know it says 6b for shorties, but I am not that short (5'9") and there is no way I can reach round to anything decent.
Steve Woods - 22/Jul/02

i second that. im 5'11" or so, and it was certainly a struggle... had to do the move off the sloper in the end.
ap - 19/Feb/04

I disagree with the two previouse comments. Although the move looks very intimidating, once you get up high under the roof it is not that hard. E2 5c is about my limit and I found it graded fairly. Well worth doing.
Steve Franklin, 19/12/06
Steve Franklin - 19/Dec/06

The hold round the roof is not the biffa jug one might hope for but it's good enough to hold on to whilst sorting out the other limbs. A genuine one-move wonder. The tat could do with replacing although it's okay for the moment (August '08); the rusty lump of steel it's attached to is substantial but showing its age.
matt perks - 31/Aug/08

5c. I'm 5'8" and weak but it didn't feel like reach problem. It's all about footwork and body position. Good route.
duncan - 31/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 14
    hard E3 0 of 5
    E3 0 of 5
    easy E3 0 of 5
    hard E2 0 of 5
    E2 5 of 5
    easy E2 0 of 5
    hard E1 0 of 5
    E1 0 of 5
    easy E1 0 of 5
    hard 6a 0 of 5
    6a 0 of 5
    easy 6a 1 of 5
    hard 5c 3 of 5
    5c 1 of 5
    easy 5c 0 of 5
    hard 5b 0 of 5
    5b 0 of 5
    easy 5b 0 of 5
    3 Stars 0 of 4
    2 Stars 1 of 4
    1 Star 3 of 4
    0 Stars 0 of 4
    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

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