Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 8
An exposed climb in a good position.</br>1) 5b, 15m. Ascend a short groove to the right of the pointed block to its capping roof. Move out left and up before climbing back right to a hanging arete. Climb up this to the fault-line and poor belay. Better to move right and belay in the corner of Snowdrop.</br>2) 5b, 15m. Pull over a roof and climb a crack, just right of the arete, to a roof. Step left onto the arete and follow it and the short rib to the top.
This route is well worth doing. The first pitch is pretty steady although I thought the arete was a bit too precarious for waltzing. The belay at the fault is semi-hanging and requires gear in the crack above the roof for it to be bombproof (you can place this with your feet on the fault ledge). There aren't really any 5c moves on the second pitch but it is steep and exposed until past the roof.
I've just done this route again. It was just as good but this time I climbed it in one pitch. This requires some careful ropework but is a good option. I couldn't find a stake above the route despite some spiky exploration so had to use one off to the left. There are also some thick branches well back.
Me and lee got on this in aug 09. 1st pitch is just about 5b, a tad bold perhaps since crux low down but easy going really ! second pitch was a bit of an anti-climax to tell the truth, got all psyched up-frit like, but barely 5a with the usual fear factor for typically loose swanage rock. However, the scariest thing about the whole climb was the top out IE: up a long and steep loose bank covered in loose rocks- so, what else is new i hear you say ?
Well worth doing. Nice technical crux on first pitch which I actually thought was harder than the second pitch though my partner disagreed. Agree with comments about the belay and second pitch being easier than expected.