Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
An incredibly intimidating line that requires good route finding on the second pitch, which snakes through the upper overhangs. Start 7m right of a large roof-capped corner.</br>1) 5a, 16m. Pull up through bulges to a rest above. Climb rightwards to an arete, then move around it to a corner that ends at the fault-line and a belay.</br>2) 5b, 19m. Climb the wall on the left, past a small overhang, then move right to below a roof. Pull strenuously through the roof at a break to a corner. Follow this to a final overhang which is passed on its left side. Stake belays in place above.
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A great Swanage experience. THe first pitch is quite commiting and requires a bit of
E1 5b,5b - both pitches meaty, but very good. P1 1st roof is actually fine to protect with a bit of cunning.
I think the previous comments are over the top. I would agree that its E1 but not 5b, think you must have missed something on the top roof Mike! A brilliant route though spoiled only by the epic trying to get through the prickly vegetation at the top. I intend going back with a scythe and secateurs to make a path!!!
Forgot to mention, like Jo it has no stake in place, could do with one as the bushes only give a nominal belay.
Brilliant route, but I think E1 5b, 5b is over the top I'd say dead on HVS 5a5a. Worse bit by far was traversing the cliff top to escape afterwards. Good quality rock (for Swanage)
Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b.
Lovely climbing but dirty in parts (bird poo at the start and a belay in an old bird's nest that gives you a lovely long lasting stench of rotten fish)
Oops - the above comment was meant to be written under Jo
Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right.
first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful.
Really good route, and only marginally harder than Jo - the pull off the ground on P1 is on jugs and only short lived (with good gear).