Relax and Swing
<< Thunderball < Jo | Sardine Special > Jug Index >>
A mind and body-blowing experience. The highlight is a Separate-Reality-style ceiling crack. Start 5m right of Jo at the large roof.
1) 6a, 10m. The big pitch. Gymnastically power out along the 7m horizontal jamming horror (great gear) to reach a hanging belay in a square-cut corner.
2) 5b, 12m. Traverse left to miss the next roof and follow an easy corner crack to the fault-line.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb a shallow groove then move rightwards beneath a blank headwall. Climb a thin technical crack, stepping left at the top to finish.
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 23.7.1983
superb roof climbing. The best tactic for this is to let your mate go and put all the gear in and then fall off near the end so you can swoop in and flash it on their gear. Brilliant jams, jugs, knee bars, bat hangs, the works. We just did the first pitch then bailed, the second pitch looks nasty, but i suppose you should do it for the full tick
Ged Desforges - 16/Mar/09
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