Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
10m. Climb the fingery, square arete to the right of Bent Crack, a short angular groove just to the right, and then the final crack.
This is quite possibly the worst route I've done at stanage (out of 60 or so). The only decent bit of climbing is at the top and that is totally escapable, and there was a big hairy caterpillar occupying a decent hold at the crux, not that that had anything to do with anything
The start is a real technical test at the grade. Ignore MattG and try it for yourself.
I think the arete at the start is quie satisfying and there are much worse routes than this to be found at Stanage.
I think I used most of Bent Crack to get off the ground...
Did the first ascent in 1989 on.... you guessed it, new years eve. At the top, do not climb the crack, but move left to climb the left hand side of the tower on great holds.