Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
A fine, mid-height traverse of this exciting area all the way from Varina to finish right of Arapiles Syndrome. It can be done in rough seas. Before starting you need to pre-place a rope on the twin stakes above the Lean Machine area, for the last belay.</br>1) 5a, 18m. From 8m up Varina, traverse right (small thread) past a groove to belay on a cracked prow. This is reported to be a serious pitch with ground-fall potential and it can be avoided.</br>2) 5a, 30m. Drop down and rightwards across the Zoolookologie bay thread. Continue past a slight prow and vague scoop. Belay down and right of a cracked pillar.</br>3) 4c, 35m. Climb down and right to traverse a weakness past various old threads, in the centre of a bay, to a comfortable stance on the far side in a groove.</br>4) 4c, 15m. Follow the corner to the top and a terrace where you hope to find your pre-placed rope. Pull out on the rope to finish.
This route can be climbed in pouring rain with no change in grade!
Exciting route but pitch 1 feels a bit artificial and has groundfall potential. It could easily be missed out.
serious route and a bit different. pitch 1 is very bold. gull's nest there again in may 2003 - a lower traverse will avoid it, though not the dive-bombing gulls.