Mr Ruckle

1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< World in Action < Arapiles Syndrome  |  None > None >>


A fine, mid-height traverse of this exciting area all the way from Varina to finish right of Arapiles Syndrome. It can be done in rough seas. Before starting you need to pre-place a rope on the twin stakes above the Lean Machine area, for the last belay.
1) 5a, 18m. From 8m up Varina, traverse right (small thread) past a groove to belay on a cracked prow. This is reported to be a serious pitch with ground-fall potential and it can be avoided.
2) 5a, 30m. Drop down and rightwards across the Zoolookologie bay thread. Continue past a slight prow and vague scoop. Belay down and right of a cracked pillar.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb down and right to traverse a weakness past various old threads, in the centre of a bay, to a comfortable stance on the far side in a groove.
4) 4c, 15m. Follow the corner to the top and a terrace where you hope to find your pre-placed rope. Pull out on the rope to finish.
FA. Mike Robertson, Brian Tilley 28.8.1997

USER COMMENTS

This route can be climbed in pouring rain with no change in grade!
Brian Tilley - 26/Mar/00

Exciting route but pitch 1 feels a bit artificial and has groundfall potential. It could easily be missed out.
Gulls nest on p2 can passed by a lower traverse.
Guy Maddox - 25/Jun/01

serious route and a bit different. pitch 1 is very bold. gull's nest there again in may 2003 - a lower traverse will avoid it, though not the dive-bombing gulls.
ian bryant - 30/May/03

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E2 0 of 3
    E2 0 of 3
    easy E2 0 of 3
    hard E1 0 of 3
    E1 3 of 3
    easy E1 0 of 3
    hard HVS 0 of 3
    HVS 0 of 3
    easy HVS 0 of 3
    hard 5b 0 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 0 of 3
    hard 5a 1 of 3
    5a 1 of 3
    easy 5a 1 of 3
    hard 4c 0 of 3
    4c 0 of 3
    easy 4c 0 of 3
    3 Stars 0 of 3
    2 Stars 1 of 3
    1 Star 2 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.