| E1 5a|
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A fine, mid-height traverse of this exciting area all the way from Varina to finish right of Arapiles Syndrome. It can be done in rough seas. Before starting you need to pre-place a rope on the twin stakes above the Lean Machine area, for the last belay.
1) 5a, 18m. From 8m up Varina, traverse right (small thread) past a groove to belay on a cracked prow. This is reported to be a serious pitch with ground-fall potential and it can be avoided.
2) 5a, 30m. Drop down and rightwards across the Zoolookologie bay thread. Continue past a slight prow and vague scoop. Belay down and right of a cracked pillar.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb down and right to traverse a weakness past various old threads, in the centre of a bay, to a comfortable stance on the far side in a groove.
4) 4c, 15m. Follow the corner to the top and a terrace where you hope to find your pre-placed rope. Pull out on the rope to finish.
FA. Mike Robertson, Brian Tilley 28.8.1997
This route can be climbed in pouring rain with no change in grade!
Brian Tilley - 26/Mar/00
Exciting route but pitch 1 feels a bit artificial and has groundfall potential. It could easily be missed out.
Gulls nest on p2 can passed by a lower traverse.
Guy Maddox - 25/Jun/01
serious route and a bit different. pitch 1 is very bold. gull's nest there again in may 2003 - a lower traverse will avoid it, though not the dive-bombing gulls.
ian bryant - 30/May/03
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