Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 28
A classic corner problem just left of the descent route makes a good first lead - if you can get off the ground.
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Difficult start but then a nice climb!
Wide bridge needed to start but a really fun climb
As guidebook says once the first move is overcome Chockney is great fun, albeit shorter than we are used to. This was my girlfriends first lead climb and she did well. A good first lead climb - as the book says
The start to this route provides beginners with a good, fun technical problem without any exposure or danger- the climb loses interest after this in my humble opinion.
An excellent VDiff, you could put a whole rack of gear in this one.
An ok route. The start wasn't that difficult, you dont have to bridge, a layback from the crack in the corner was very easy.
Chockney was my first trad lead. I've read the comments about a difficult start so I did it again recently. I still don't think it's difficult (and I'm still not climbing harder than VS).
Nice bit of back and footing to get established, especially since it's easier to get friction on the slippy rock with a heel (facing left) rather than a toe.
Oops, added this comment to the wrong route, should have been for The Chimney!
Interesting first few moves up the corner, though there are various ways to overcome this obstacle. The polished rock makes this a 4b move, I reckon, but as it's straight off the ground there's no danger. I found heel and toeing to be the best option, by the way. The corner and sea cliff atmosphere provide a nice feeling of exposure for the grade. The top section is little more than scramble. Simple belay like most of Cattle Troughs, with abseil stakes and spikes aplenty.
The bridging at the start is ace, especially when wet! Entire route can be fully stitched with ease. Perfect first lead.
A nice little route. The first couple of moves are fine if you can bridge and are of average height. Not the best route in the world for hobbits and other short creatures eh Ian (good job you've got strong arms).