Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 10
The Chimney is one of Swanage's most popular climbs and is the first introduction to the delights of the Swanage sea cliffs for many climbers. The start of the climb is close to the low-angled descent line that gains the base of the unusual cliff feature - The Lecture Theatre. The climb is actually only a chimney for the first half of its height and it is this section that is the sternest section of the route which requires some strenuous back-and-footing on some slippery rock to overcome it. At the top of the chimney a traverse right accesses easier ground that leads to the cliff top and an iron-stake belay. Finishing straight up is a good and well-protected alternative finish at S 4a.
Instead of exiting on the right, continue straight up using the obvious continuation crack. A much better finish, commiting (for the grade) and with bomber pro. Bumps the grade up to severe
Definately a Severe finish if you continue straight up.
Agree with the severe for straight up...also worth one star ? Maybe.
Excellent route with the direct finish, thoroughly enjoyed!
Nice bit of back and footing to get established, especially since it's easier to get friction on the slippy rock with a heel (facing left) rather than a toe.
Did the direct finish and really enjoyed the entire route. With the direct finish I think it's probably worth 2 stars.
A nice gentle S 4a if done direct. A good first severe lead.
Really enjoyable route with a couple of airy moves to finnish (direct). I seconded this, and must admit that had i been on lead I would have had a thoughtful moment prior to launching into the last couple of moves. Good lead hobbit friend !