Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
Climb a crack on the right of the slab, then follow flakes leading to a roof. Move left to finish via a groove. Serious above half height.
DO NOT CLIMB
Climbed this (or a new variation) last weekend 21/11/2004, I went straight up the arete until under the little roof and then turned this on the right. The protection was not very good at the top but it seemed a worthwhile climb, it was quite damp so hard to grade, I thought HVS 5a/b.
Climbed this at the weekend, and although the gear is lacking at the top it seemed ok technically. Hardest where the flake/crack peters out.
Climbed this 25/03/07, a nice route with a very serious upper section, there was no gear above half height meaning possible ground fall potential. The good gear ends along with the flake. Undergraded, felt just as hard as Eskimo Nell (E1 5b).
Led it on Sunday - can't understand the previous comment, and there's no sign of rockfall in this area. When you've moved up the flake crack and got yourself established under the roof there's a bomber 3.5 cam and an old peg. The moves out left are OK but then moving up and right the gear's a bit sparse and the climbing is thin for a few moves. A nice route, HVS 5a is right.