Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 77
A popular route with varied climbing in good situations. Start at the left-hand side of a high, arched recess 5m right of a large block. Climb the groove on the left until a move left gain the lip of an overhang. Pull up slightly left then back right into a bulging groove. Climb this to finish up two short walls.
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How early do you go left round the overhang ? Go early for less overhang, later for better holds.
Wish I knew! Found the remains od several rusty pegs and the foothold that is probably used, but eventually wimped out. I'm obviously not the first as there was a jammed Rock 7 complete with extender on 19 Oct 02 - made my retreat much easier!
soft touch at the grade, lots of in situ metal
Traverse around under the roof where there is a horizontal crack (for hands). Step across to the nose on the outside corner. Good holds around the corner. I nearly wimped out before trying this move, but it turned out to be not as difficult as it first appeared.
The step across on to the overhang is quite straightforward. The moves after up a steep wall require some thought, but the difficulties soon ease.
Stepping across was ok once committed, but the wall after!
Took more than one attempt to make the fairly committing traverse (not actually too bad). The wall after is steep (overhanging) but on nice big holds and decent gear.
Wimped out on the traverse onto the nose as I couldn't really protect the move. Experience required placing the pro as the route meanders. Twin ropes would be good. Can't wait to try it again. Can't comment on the top half of the route as I never managed to get that far!!
Straightforward climbing on big positive holds in a spectacluar position. Use double ropes. Move left at the top of the groove onto the wall, then the move up from there is slightly puzzling as a hold has come off. Still no more then 4c though. Good route.
**** WARNING **** THIS CLIMB IS WRONGLY DESCRIBED IN BOTH TEXT AND TOPO IN THE 2005 & 2012 ROCKFAX! SEE UKC LOGBOOKS FOR MORE INFo!
18/4/14 - BE BLOODY CAREFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure that if you do this route the correct way it's fine, but like a lot of others I didn't !!!