Peacemaker

1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Isis < Archangel  |  Varina > Uncry These Tears >>


The last good route in this area is a serious undertaking. Climb up the right-hand corner of the arch to a foot-ledge near the top. Step up right onto a slab for a tricky and bold finish.
FA. Pete Oxley 8.2.1989

USER COMMENTS

My mate has had a nightmare on this at the point where you step out on to the slab, out from underneath the roof..... is there a better way to do this????
Sean - 07/May/02

I've not led many HVS's but this felt pretty desperate. The move around the corner was blind and the holds disappointing when you got there. I only just rattled my way to the top by skin of teeth. Some guy who led it after me lobbed spectacularly at the same point and he reckoned he was usually comfortable at the grade. Mostly good gear tho and worth a star for excitement.
Owen W-G - 04/Oct/04

Did this route on Sat and now its Monday morning and i am still thinking about it! Hard for the grade but still an awesome route.
felix - 01/Nov/04

I failed on this y'day, trying to make the move from under the roof round onto the slab. I couldn't find any gear up at the roof and am mystified by the "good gear" comment in the guidebook. Good line though. The abseil to retrieve the gear was scary!
Tim G - 21/Mar/05

Not sure about the "good gear" comment in the guide, although I am prepared to accept that I missed something. At the midpoint where you leave the crack and climb to the overhang before stepping out right, there's a loose but (I thought) crucial handhold. This and everything afterwards felt desperate to me.
drcorbasisgod - 10/Apr/06

I also saw a guy lob off in the same place as the dodgy handhold.
drcorbasisgod - 10/Apr/06

This is very serious at the grade, not well protected as the guide says. Unless you have micro wires the top is very run out. I almost lost it at the top stepping right from under the roof, I did not want to take that whipper, what a relief when I managed to hold it all together; but I know someone who wasn’t so lucky, fell from the crucial move at the top ripped gear and ended up a few meters from the deck. Any way I suggest removing the comment about good gear because it encourages the less skilled to have a go, and some one may get hurt!
A.J - 07/Jul/06

I think thats a sensible suggestion. I'm a bit rusty but used to be rather comfortable at the grade and more importantly happy to take a fall on a HVS without serious concern. Not this one...I had a right scare, the gear on the slab was very poor and the fall potentially very severe. I wouldn't want to fall round that arete and into that corner..nasty!!!
Shane - 10/Apr/07

Led this last Sunday - first day out this year -and found it tough for HVS5a. Unsure exactly where to move right (where's the 'footledge'?) I got a good ballnut under a flake on the left and a 0.5 friend just round the arete on the slab, then moved right up to the roof where there's a good sharp sidepull but chuff all gear. I then stepped right onto the slab, which is very thin and tremendously exposed. Got a couple of poor pieces in and was pleased when I finally got to the good holds...
John Parker - 27/Feb/08

Last route at the end of a great week of climbing. Glad to hear others found it hard work at the grade. We had the coast guard wop-wop hovering right next to us for a good few minutes, even they could tell I was having a bit of a wobbler! Agree with all the comments regarding gear, scariness, exposure etc. I got exactly what I wanted from this one, a long scary and tough HVS to end my trip with.
Dave Foster - 22/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

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