Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
This popular but serious undertaking delves into the deep zawn at the western limits of The Promenade. Calm seas are essential for the first pitch - if it is remotely rough then keep away.</br>1) A1, 15m. Drop down and follow the side wall of the zawn just above the water, pulling on fixed threads and nuts to gain a rock bridge at the back of the zawn.</br>2) 4b , 15m. Climb the dark chimney above on good holds, until you are spat out of the blow hole, belay immediately. Lots of slings for threads needed.</br>3) 4b , 20m. Traverse awkwardly right to the arete, where a ledge leads right to easy ground.
Absolutely brilliant - the chimney pitch is just the best ever.
Excellent fun !
Alternatively, start on the left hand side of the zawn and traverse in along Clever Dick (fantastic DWS at about English 5c, strangely omited from the Rockfax guide), to gain the rock bridge at the back. This way the whole route can be DWSed in relative safety, just watch the bumbly scramble out at the top.
A great route. Weird to pull on slings, the last two at the rock bridge were fun, especially when they went their separate ways! Pity about the last pitch.
This route is fricking awesome the best ive done at swanage was so much fun. First pitch is great swinging around on dubious threads old threads and some hard moves as well getting onto the rock bridge. Second was wicked too Like a Superior, dryer and slightly lighter Avernus lots of new insitu threads at the mo. Shame the 3rd pitch doesn't equal the quality of the first 2. All 3 pitches felt VS, for different reasons. 4 stars an absolute must!!! Thanks 4 coming Costa u hairy Pirate.
some of the fixed slings are getting worn and at least one broke, take narrow tape or rope along.