Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
An awkward undertaking. Start as for Quo Vadis Direct.</br>1) 5c, 20m. Climb into a niche and then up into a chimney/slot (2 threads). Break right to gain a blocky corner then traverse left, 4m along a break, beneath a strip roof. Climb into an open groove and belay on a perched ledge on the left.</br>2) 5b, 8m. Ascend the groove above to a snappy finish.
To say that this is awkward is a pretty fair assessment... Ordinarily I would expect to onsight 5b moves. However, moving out from the good bridging rest in the chimney, around the corner, is properly tricky. Took several superb falls on the dodgy looking tat (which held but badly needs replacing) before giving up. It probably is 5b once you know the sequence - but I'm b*****ed if I could work it out!
We managed to climb this route yesterday, so I am in a better position to comment... I've replaced the tat at the thread that protects the crux (moving out from the chimney). Felt more like E2 5c to me on lead - hard to onsight. As much gear as you want to place - but work very hard to avoid rope-drag. I had to untie one of my ropes halfway through the second crux (climbing the 'open grove'). The second pitch is not 5b, and is friable. Bottom pitch alone would be 2 stars IMO.
Found this quite stiff.