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A brilliant outing for the grade, travelling through some awesome overhangs with good protection. Start below a niche.
1) 5b, 10m. Attain the small niche then move right into a chimney. Swing right along a roof and climb a groove to the next roof. Ape through this to an amazing hanging perch to belay.
2) 6a, 10m. Put on your cycle clips and power through the roof crack on the right to below another roof. Traverse left to an arete then climb the corner above to finish.
FA. Nick Buckley, Kevin Turner 11.1978
Two awesome pitches through unlikely territory.
Belay in the first niche of the tide threatens. Climb like a contortionist but keep a check on which way gravity is pulling... and watch out for numb fingers after the footless struggle on the second pitch!
Alastair Hudson - 30/Jun/03
Thanx, I Enjoyed putting it up!
Kevin Turner - 22/Nov/03
A great outing and perfectly protected too.
The only hard move is getting round the roof and by hard, we mean f-ing desperate, even for swanage. We had to aid the mother and that was hard enougth !
PS- belay hard to arrange so that you don't get pulled of your perch when your leader rests / falls on the gear !!!
davey - 03/Jul/05
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