The Ritz

3 Stars
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Paternoster < Bad Young Brother  |  Squid > Crackers >>

A brilliant outing for the grade, travelling through some awesome overhangs with good protection. Start below a niche.
1) 5b, 10m. Attain the small niche then move right into a chimney. Swing right along a roof and climb a groove to the next roof. Ape through this to an amazing hanging perch to belay.
2) 6a, 10m. Put on your cycle clips and power through the roof crack on the right to below another roof. Traverse left to an arete then climb the corner above to finish.
FA. Nick Buckley, Kevin Turner 11.1978


Two awesome pitches through unlikely territory.
Belay in the first niche of the tide threatens. Climb like a contortionist but keep a check on which way gravity is pulling... and watch out for numb fingers after the footless struggle on the second pitch!
Alastair Hudson - 30/Jun/03

Thanx, I Enjoyed putting it up!
Kevin Turner - 22/Nov/03

A great outing and perfectly protected too.
The only hard move is getting round the roof and by hard, we mean f-ing desperate, even for swanage. We had to aid the mother and that was hard enougth !
PS- belay hard to arrange so that you don't get pulled of your perch when your leader rests / falls on the gear !!!
davey - 03/Jul/05

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 10
    hard E4 0 of 3
    E4 0 of 3
    easy E4 0 of 3
    hard E3 0 of 3
    E3 3 of 3
    easy E3 0 of 3
    hard E2 0 of 3
    E2 0 of 3
    easy E2 0 of 3
    hard 6b 0 of 3
    6b 0 of 3
    easy 6b 0 of 3
    hard 6a 2 of 3
    6a 0 of 3
    easy 6a 1 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 3
    5c 0 of 3
    easy 5c 0 of 3
    3 Stars 4 of 4
    2 Stars 0 of 4
    1 Star 0 of 4
    0 Stars 0 of 4
    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.