Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
A tough roof crack. Start beneath the right wall of the roofed central bay at a diagonal crack.</br>1) 5a, 10m. Follow the crack up left to a ledge and take a small chimney to the left of a roof. Belay on a good ledge on the right.</br>2) 5c, 15m. Assault the brutal roof to a breather in a chimney below the next roof. Traverse left into the light to join The Ritz at the arete and finish as for that route.
1st pitch is harder than 4c and the second is almost ungradeable! the accepted way of doing the second pitch seems to be to traverse right from the belay until you can move up and wedge yourself into a niche then come back all the way left to the Ritz roof (with rope drag pulling you back as you go) - moving straight up from the belay looks very hard and blank. the technical crux is the traverse right off the belay - the rest of it will just wear you out physically and psychologically! a nice route for contortionists!
Did this free back in 1977 when it was more commonly aided. Remember finding it very hard but very glad to get established in the little niche over the overhang. My companion, Chris Massey, was unfortunately killed on Mt McKinley a few years later.