Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
Fine climbing up the left side of the wall. Lots of threads.
The threads are in a very poor state, especially the first. I managed with a friend 1 but it is important! The first 25' are quite strenuous leading to excellent climbing to the top.
There is good protection without the threads, It would be better to omit them from the description. Both the CC and the Rockfax guide are confusing in the info on how to find these routes. It would be better to say "abseil from two stakes about 20 mts below and east of the pylon"
Having now done this and the two routes to it's left I consider this one of the best E2/3 walls at Swanage. This route sticks it right to you at the start and then eases up after the second thread but with enjoyable climbing all the way to the solid finish. Maybe the threads have been replaced but they looked like pretty decent bits of 10mm rope to me. The route might well be E3 without the first two threads just for the extra effort of hanging on to place the gear.
great route. threads seemed mostly fine in May 2013