Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 66
10m. Climb the central buttress, passing an overhang early on, to an awkward leftwards exit under the final roof.
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The new Stanage Guide gives this HVS 5a. Didn't have time to try it myself, but it looks good and i'll be back to have a go soon.
Superb route, with 2 separate cruxes. Possibly deserves HVS 5a and TWO stars!
Definitely worth HVS 5a. Good route.
Having led this yesterday I would agree that it is worth HVS because of the two separate cruxes. Yes the protection is there but the two cruxes make for quite a tough climb. Great fun trying to get onto the ledge for the second crux!!!!
The definitive guide is nearer the mark at HVS 5a although the top crux might deserve 5b, agree worth a least one star.
Can't see why people think this is HVS. Sure, two 5a sections but both short, the first low down and the second well protected. VS 5a seems spot on to me.
Very difficult to reach the crack to place gear for the first crux (which I found extremely difficult) and the second crux, though well protected, combines to confirm the HVS grade. I would however say that I consider the moves to be hard 5b.
I defy anyone to get over the roof with style. My undignified grovelling won me no technique awards. Probably VS as the gear is right above you - but there are many, many easier HVS's.
lead this yesterday, and it was great fun. the first crux was whillanstastic and the second was a lot of grunting and farting....crackin route. well worth vs 5a
Very nice route, short people can place gear to protect the lower crux by using cunning methods to extend wires. The upper crux is more burly and is made easier by careful searching for holds (both left and right). Cutting loose at this point is (was!) both fun, exciting and unexpected!
Oh yes, the picture of Thea Williams topping out this route in the current Eastern Grit (second edition, can't remember page as its not my copy) is incorrectly labeled as being Cosmic Crack, the route to the right.
Lovely climb, I make it HVS 5b any day of the week, the upper crux is tricky to say the least. I somehow managed to unclip my bomber gear struggling onto the ledge of the second crux, nearly came off backwards for a long fall onto a small wire! Managed to hold on just about! Still no way 5a moves.