Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
A quality line which starts as for The Talisman. At the thread at the end of the pocketed traverse, ascend a cracked layback rib to the top, exiting up a groove on the left. Small cams useful.
great route, sustained and with decent gear if you can hang on to put it in! i replaced the bottom 2 threads (the ones on the traverse) on 6/5/06, you may want to replace the top one as well, quite near the top. the first thread on the traverse shouldn't be trusted - the rock is very poor but you can get a good number 5 zero cam in a slot to its right.
Quality line, only downside was that it was all over too soon. Didn't use the top thread but you can get some bomber wires in at that point.
superb route, s stars for sure. The threads are a in a poor state at the moment, worth replacing if you're around...
Threads replaced (June 09) though would only really trust the one at the bottom of the rising crack. There is other gear, especially small cams on the traverse and at the very top of the crack before the bigger holds arrive. Pumpy! climbing!
Thread at start of pocketed traverse replaced 17.5.15 but the one that used to be at the end of the traverse is no longer possible - the rock must have snapped.